The gastronomic view of Bento dos Santos

Portuguese connoisseur claims that local cuisine is increasingly attracting gastronomic enthusiasts to the island of Madeira.

José Bento dos Santos could not have a more straightforward opinion about Madeira: The local gastronomy is simply «extraordinary» and the island itself is an «aphrodisiac paradise». The acclaimed Portuguese gastronomic connoisseur, who is also a wine producer, travelled to Madeira to experience the best of the local cuisine.

As deputy chairman of the International Gastronomy Academy (IGA) and president of the Portuguese Gastronomy Academy, José Bento dos Santos was joined by several counterparts from a number of different countries.

The group, who travelled to Madeira in May, included the IGA founders from France, Spain, Sweden, Italy and England. The academy’s purpose is to «safeguard regional and national culinary heritage» and «good taste in food» whilst always bearing healthy ways in mind.

Their visit offered the ideal chance to taste and «get to know in further detail the Madeira Wine and the several grape varieties, in order to understand their differences». Bento dos Santos is known to be an admirer of the wine which he considers «extraordinary» be it as an aperitif or when added to food.

The gastronomer was equally delighted with the quality of regional products, particularly the local market, Mercado dos Lavradores, emphasizing the «wonderful» colours and selection of produce.

In addition to having tasted the famous corn and yam, Bento dos Santos was thrilled with the renowned espetada, succulent pieces of beef skewered on a bay spit, one of the most traditional dishes in Madeira: that, gives the .  yet extraordinary meal due to the quality of the .

Regarding the evolution of gastronomy and restaurants in Madeira and according to the current trend of regional food prepared by good chefs, good products and improved techniques which shy away from traditional, Bento dos Santos welcomes the change and natural evolution of gastronomy and states that «what is modern now, will be traditional within a few years. Some recipes will remain part of history and others will pass». He further adds that «currently there are new recipes, new and talented chefs who are creating recipes based on our genuine products». On the subject of evolution and creation of new recipes, he states that «creating a recipe is always something of merit. A tasteful dish is a meaningful one». However, Bento dos Santos emphasizes that «it should not be the name of the dish that which draws attention to it».

These new dishes and concepts may be a reason worthy of a trip to Portugal and in particular to Madeira. This acclaimed connoisseur recalls that only a few years ago people travelled to Madeira «due to the climate, flowers, etc., and nowadays they come with set reservations at local restaurants» as gastronomy is currently «in fashion. There are dozens of television programmes» on gastronomy, two of which are presented by Bento dos Santos himself.

As to the Portuguese restaurants included in the Michelin guide, Bento dos Santos believes that others are not included simply due to lack of investment prospects. That investment, according to the President of the Portuguese Gastronomy Academy, is in accordance with our capacity: «We have excellent food, excellent wines that compete with the best in the world. However we are not recognized for it». For that reason, José Bento dos Santos stands by the idea that «recognition is the keyword in the world of gastronomy and wines».

Throughout the country there are 12 restaurants included in the famous Michelin guide, two of which hold two stars. In Madeira, only one restaurant features the guide, the Il Gallo D’Oro, which received a visit from the group of the International Gastronomy Academy.